The 434 from the Park and Ride bus stop near Walmart was right on time at 0722. I watched the people in front of me boarding and remembered the rules from online research – driver doesn’t touch money, just feed it into the machine, exact change only, $5.50 for an all-day pass, driver hands ticket. Successful entry.
Onward to Paiwa St, just south of H1 near Waikele, to catch the 81 Express downtown. The Google itinerary said it would be the third stop, but as we exited off the H1 it seemed to me the stop should be real soon. I turned to my seat mate, showed him my schedule and asked him where I should get off to catch the 81 Express to downtown. The old man squints and says, for downtown, get off next stop, then cross the street to the bus stop on the other side. As the bus eased to a stop, I let him know it was my first bus ride in Honolulu. I got up and said thank you. He smiled and replied, “No problem brother, good luck.”
The 81 Express was supposed to come at 0743, but at 0730 another downtown express was pulling up. I quickly explained to a young guy next to me that I was heading to Chinatown and was waiting for the 81 Express. He said, “Man, that ones makes more stops, will take an hour to get downtown. This one will get you to Bishop Street in 30 mins, and then you can transfer to Chinatown from there, or walk.” He spoke with casual conviction. I bit, and hopped on the bus. The man was not wrong.
Got off on Bishop Street and turned right onto Hotel Street. Man, the bums are thick in this neck of the woods on Hotel. I was deciding whether to walk the six blocks down into Chinatown, or catch a bus. I decided to wait for a bus, as much to observe the homeless squalor as anything else. There were not tents or anything set up, but places were staked out on the building-side of the wide sidewalk. One big shirtless guy was flailing on the ground, writhing as if in bad dream, or maybe possessed and speaking in tongues. A skinny girl sat next to him, calmly smoking a cigarette, apparently not alarmed at the flailing screaming mass next to her. An old woman and two pals had set up a sidewalk make-shift pen for a small dog. Not sure if they had been there all night, but it certainly looked like they were going to make a day of it.
Caught the bus for a five-block ride to Maunakea Street. Ah, Chinatown. Hmmm, never been here at 0830 in the morning. Nice temperature for walking around, cooler than I’m use to. Usually, I’m here between 1100 and 1300, sitting in a hot car, illegally parked, as my wife scurries to assorted shops. Then, usually on a Saturday, I’m happy to get in and out of Chinatown. Today, I want to take a more casual inspection.
Not all the shops open this early, but some are. Vegetable stands spill out across the front of open stores at the corner Maunakea Street. An early shopper points to a big bundle of green onions and the shopkeeper bundles it into a clear plastic bag while chattering and smiling. I’m sure they were also enjoying the cool morning air.
SHOPS OPEN EARLY ON MAUNAKEA STREET
I keep rolling down hill on Hotel, one more block to River Street. The stores on the second half of this block are still shuttered, and tagged heavy with graffiti. No, not artistic.
I want to check out River Street. I expect it to be squalid based on my numerous previous drive-byes, but I want to see it on foot. I take a right on River Street, and yep, it’s sketchy for the next two blocks, until after Beretania. Across the street are homeless campsites by the river, tents not as totally solid as I remember, but enough to make it a no-go zone for the casual stroller. There is also a bus stop on the river side of the street, in the middle of the homeless camp. After walking past, the number 20 bus pulls up to the stop and I hear a shouting match, not sure if it was between two bums or the bus driver and a bum. Anyway, somebody was telling somebody to get the fuck out of there. Yep, definitely in the running for worst bus stop in town.
IN THE RUNNING FOR WORST BUS STOP IN TOWN
On this side of the street are several businesses – a barber shop, thrift store, pawn shop, alteration shop, and also some kind of Chinese friendship society with red letters on the window distinctive against white drawn shades. Not the most appealing place for a friendship society, but I admire the spirit.
THE ONE AND ONLY STORE ON THE LAST SKETCHY BLOCK OF RIVER STREET –I LOVE IT — FENG SHUI DESIGN AND LUCKY GIFT OFFERED IN SAME PLACE, NOT TO MENTION A COLD DRINK!
I cross over Pauahi Street, staying on River Street for another sketchy block. But after crossing Beretania, things look up. Here is where River Street ends, and the Sun Yat-Sen Mall begins, a sort of stone pavement walking park along the river for a long block. There is a big area in the middle where crowds of mostly Chinese men huddle around cement tables playing assorted card and other board games. Halfway down the block is the to entrance of the Chinatown Cultural Plaza, a place I’ve never been. It is nice inside the Cultural Plaza – room to walk around, a religious shrine with burning incense, a variety of tidy shops and eateries. In the middle is the Moongate Stage, no doubt a nice setting for small shows.
Across the river is the Izumo Taisha Mission, another thing I was not aware of. I did not go in, but admired it from outside and snapped a few pictures. I was not aware of the history or importance of this building until I got home and Googled it, and found out it is one of the few active Shinto shrines in the United States. The wooden A-frame structure was inspired by Shimane Prefecture’s classical Japanese shrine Izumo Taisha. Originally constructed in 1922, it has a rich history – closed at the onset of World War II, seized by the City and County of Honolulu in 1947, and finally returned to the shrine organization in 1961 after a lengthy legal and legislative process. Gee, who’d a guessed this was here. Again, that’s why you need boots on the ground to fully explore a neighborhood. Never saw this on my drive arounds!
I ate my sandwich in the shade by the river. I read for a while, David Sedaris’s Theft by Finding. Then I hiked back across the river and up Pauahi Street. On the shady side of the street, I leaned against a building and checked the time and place I needed to be for the Express Bus to Waipahu.
I notice a black-haired fella across the street checking himself out in a store’s mirrored window. Black shirt, black shorts, gold jewelry. He admires and adjusts himself from head down. Runs his hand through his hair. Adjusts his collar and the hang of his gold neck chain. Turns slightly left and right. Runs his hands down his sides to his hips. Turns square to the window and checks his belt line and the tuck of his shirt. Satisfied, he turns and walks away.
But he never looked down at the main thing I noticed, a fat black ankle brace securing a plastic box. Obviously, terms of parole. I’m sure that will impress the ladies.
I catch the Express Bus to Waipahu. After one transfer and a short walk, I’m home before noon.
Waipahu Bob 